This week’s whisky is from The Balvenie Distillery, in Speyside. They are very proud of their crafted nature – growing their own barley, malting it on site and even having a team of coopers to care for their barrels.

Balvenie DoubleWood

Here we have their entry level whisky, the DoubleWood. Aged 12 years, part of that time is spent finishing in sherry casks, thus the name.

The nose is sweet and alcohol filled, with a creamy vanilla tone although without much evidence of that sherry. With a splash of water, the alcohol is pushed back and you start to smell more of the cask – more the sherry wood than the sherry itself, although there’s a rich, sweet fruitiness just showing through.

On your tongue, the first thing that hits you is the sweetness – it’s like licking a honeyed spoon. Then the alcohol puts in an appearance, bringing with it some gentle spice and a hint of that sherry, and some wood from the cask coming through at the end. It’s smooth without being overly subtle.

Water surprisingly makes very little difference; the alcohol is less pronounced but you still have the honey start, the warming spice in the middle and a smooth, lingering sweet wood finish.

This is a wonderful dram; not hugely complex but gloriously drinkable. Given it’s at the low end of their range, I can only imagine how good the rest of their whiskies taste!

 

This week continues the Japanese theme, sticking with Nikka Whisky. Here, we go back to the Miyagikyou distillery.

Miyagikyou 12 Year Old

This is the Miyagikyou 12 Year Old, the middle of the three vintages normally available (between the 10 and the 15). As you can see above, it’s a glorious golden colour in the glass.

The initial impression on the nose is of overwhelming alcohol – surprising, as it’s bottled at 45%. There’s a lot of that raw grain smell, with just a hint of sweetness lurking underneath. With water, the alcohol is cut back enough to reveal the character of the whisky to shine through. There’s more of that sweetness, almost brown sugar-like, and the rawness is faded.

In the mouth, it’s reminiscent of a young bourbon, with that untamed rawness – although it’s a lot smoother than the nose suggests. That alcohol leaves a long, burning tail. Watered down, it’s still good and powerful but the sweetness comes out, with some fresh, green citrus aspects to it.

This one is definitely improved with water; it brings out a fresh, sweet and very drinkable character that is otherwise overwhelmed by a surprisingly young-feeling alcohol rawness.

 

Yoichi is one of two distilleries owned by Nikka. I’ve previously tried their Pure Malt Red, which is primarily taken from the other distillery, Miyagikyo.

Yoichi 20 Year Old

Here we have their 20 Year Old, the oldest single malt expression regularly produced. It’s a deep rich amber in colour, looking almost like a dessert wine.

The nose is sweet; lots of raisin-like  fruit, along with some wood and lots of alcohol – it’s bottled at 52%. With water, the sweetness is reduced but still plenty of fruit, and a little of the grain comes through – something I wouldn’t have expected considering the age.

Taking a taste, the first thing that hits you is the sweetness. Despite the alcohol burn, it’s wonderfully, deliciously smooth. Those rich raisin fruits slowly come through, giving you an almost syrup-like feel. Water cuts back that alcohol a little, but it’s still a big part of the dram. It holds on to that wonderful, sweet honey smoothness although once again, there’s just a hint of the grain coming though at the back of your throat.

It’s a better dram without water, because although the alcohol is a little overwhelming the grain is more understated. Either way, it’s sweet, smooth and rich.

 

I have to confess that I don’t think I’d heard of Tomintoul before now; if I’d seen it in a shop, I’d have wondered if it was one of those ‘invented’ distilleries that certain shops use to disguise their own brands.

But it’s a real distillery, in Speyside. It’s nice to find that it’s owned by Angus Dundee Distillers, who have just two distilleries (the other one being Glencadam) – it’s a refreshing change to find a small producer in my cupboard.

tomintoul-1

So, this is the Tomintoul 10 Year Old, a 40% “gentle dram”. It’s a nice pale straw colour in the glass and if the nose is anything to go by, that “gentle dram” tagline is well justified. It’s sweet, with vanilla toffee blending tantalisingly with the generous alcohol.

With water, both the sweetness and alcohol is cut back, revealing some spice and just a hint of oak.

It’s initially smooth in the mouth, with more of that almost creamy toffee sweetness to start. That then leads into quite a harsh, raw grain alcohol taste which is a little unsettling. The finish is warmer, spice and tannin which lingers quite pleasantly.

Watered, the sweetness is still there at the start although less toffee. That raw grain has gone, and the spice finish is still there but less tannic. It’s a shame to lose that creamy toffee start, but it makes it an all round more balanced dram.

I’m slightly surprised by the rawness in the middle, considering the 10 years in the barrel. It’s not a perfect dram, but it’s intriguing. I may not bother with seeking out this edition, but my interest is piqued enough to look out for their other expressions.

 

Continuing this mini series of anonymous Islay bottlings, this week we have Islay Mist Deluxe – which could either be a whisky, or a new paint colour.

It’s a nice pale straw in the glass. The nose is light, almost floral with a grapefruit citrus feel to it – not entirely what Islay conjures up in my mind! There’s definitely some peat lurking underneath but it’s subtle, understated.

A dash of water loses the sweetness a little, but reveals what I can only really describe as ‘beach-like’ notes; sea spray, salt, iodine.

It starts sweet and honey like on the tongue, the alcohol gently washing that away before it gets too sticky and brings out just a hint of pepper. There’s a slightly raw feel to it, which makes me suspect there’s some quite young spirit in there but overall it’s a delicate, subtle dram – surprising for a whisky and doubly so from Islay.

If anything, water enhances that honey flavour and with less of an alcohol bite, it lingers longer on your tongue. If the nose with water takes you to the beach, the taste takes you to the meadow – sweet, delicate, sundrenched.

I’m in love with this one. It’s not a big, brash, complex dram for sure – it’s delicate, simple but finely balanced and very drinkable. I was going to say that I’d put it on my birthday list, but having discovered that it can be had for as little as £15 a bottle online, I’m just going to order a bottle now. Or maybe two.

 

The RMS Titanic set sail on her maiden voyage from Southampton on the 10th of April 1912. On the 15th of April 1012, she hit an iceberg in the North Atlantic Ocean and sunk. Of the 2,224 passengers and crew, only 710 survived. It remains one of the deadliest peacetime maritime disasters in history.

RMS Titanic

During a recent visit to Berry Bros & Rudd we (carefully) flicked through an old ledger, covering transactions from March 1912, and saw the entries for orders to be delivered by the Titanic – 2 cases of original yellow Chartreuse, 2 of very fine sherry, 1 of Manzanilla sherry, 18 of dry champagne, 3 of “dry dry” gin and 3 of 10 year old Scotch whisky were loaded as cargo, for delivery to a variety of US-based customers.

Ledger

On the wall in the Berry Bros & Rudd shop is the insurance advisement letter from White Star Line. It reads, “Referring to your shipment by this steamer, it is with great regret we have to inform you that the Titanic foundered at 2-20 a.m. 15th instant, after colliding with an iceberg, and is a total loss. Details of shipment are shown at foot, Yours faithfully, for White Star Line”.

Titanic Letter

To commemorate the centennial of the disaster, Berry Bros & Rudd decided to create a limited edition Scotch whisky. Called Titanic, their commemorative bottling was distilled in 1998, aged in Oloroso sherry casks and bottled this year.

With scant information about the style of the whisky they had delivered to the ship, they decided to honour the “plucky little countess” Lady Rothes, with a Glenrothes, Speyside whisky. (BBR own the Glenrothes whisky brand, though not the distillery itself).

Titanic Whisky

BBR’s Spirits Manager, Douglas McIvor, took us through a tasting of the whisky, sharing his own tasting notes and encouraging us to add our own. He selected this particular whisky because was reminiscent of the Edwardian style popular at that time, although no samples or specific notes on the BBR whisky sent onto Titanic survive.

It’s not often I get to compare tasting notes with an expert, so I was eager to ‘calibrate’ my whisky tastebuds. It has a rich, sweet nose with the fruit of the sherry coming through and bringing a touch of the oak with it – I also get a hint of warm, ripe oranges. At 46% the alcohol slightly overwhelms the more subtle flavours – with a splash of water the sherry is cut back and reveals more vanilla fudge.

Douglas’ own tasting notes are pleasingly well aligned with mine – vanilla, deep citrus, dried fruits, figs, coffee and spice. On having another sniff I get the coffee, although it’s hard to know how much of that is down to the power of suggestion.

It’s smooth and honey-like in the mouth, mild fruit tones leading though to quite a tannic hit. The finish is long and drawn out, the sweetness fading and leaving you with a noticeable rawness. Watered, it’s positively creamy and there’s that vanilla again; the alcohol is less aggressive but you still have that wonderful lingering finish – perhaps a little sweeter.

Back to Douglas’ notes, he also highlights the deep fruity notes and honeyed texture, although he’s on his own with talk of brazil nuts and liquorice!

A little overwhelming raw, a splash of water makes this a wonderfully complex, rewarding dram – sadly I won’t be getting an entire bottle to keep in my cupboard, but I’ll certainly look forward to exploring what else the Glenrothes distillery has to offer.

This is a single cask bottling and there were only 100 bottles – snapped up almost instantly at the very reasonable price of £100.

Visit Kavey Eats to read more about the sinking of the Titanic, including how it happened and some of the human stories of passengers lost and saved, including Lady Rothes, the plucky little countess.

Pete Drinks and Kavey Eats attending the tasting as guests of Berry Bros & Rudd.

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